Sorry not to have written for awhile guys. I've been blocked, the red tape finally gagged me. Fortunately, I have a VPN because Levy would never be able to get any research done without it so I'll write soon. The Husband has to do research now but I wanted to let you all know, things are going well, I'm still alive and I'll be home in a month. ttyl.
xoxo Lolo in China
Friday, May 29, 2009
Thursday, May 7, 2009
The Big City
It's when I get out of the Yang Pu district and closer into the city that I enjoy myself here the most but it's also then that I dislike it the most. I love the adventure of exploring, to observe the drastic differences in neighborhoods, what difference 1 block can make. You can be crowded by old buildings and run down old apartments, half knocked down by the government while some still have laundry hanging from their windows, getting swarmed by local chinese staring and begging you to buy their trinkets. Then you turn the corner and there are parks and pristine businesses, chic restaurants and tall, luxurious apartment buildings. I love imagining how it must have looked in this same place 50 years ago, 100 years ago, 2000 years ago. I'm captured with intrigue as I meander through the small local alleyways within the local housing complexes, as people gather to watch a riveting game of old folks playing mahjong or cards in every corner. It's delightful to watch grandparents appreciate their grandchildren whose chubby little behinds bear themselves for all to see. I get a kick out of watching women and men hang their laundry on the small trees out in the middle of the sidewalk, with no shame in the fact that their granny panties and armpit stained undershirts are on exhibit for all to witness. Most of all it feels invigorating to know that I am a piece of it all, that I am here witnessing a time when both worlds exist in this world center, this metropolis.
In a land that has written history dating back 4000 years, I can see some traces of that history and simultaneously witness a drastic and rapid modernization of this city. I can still see, hear and feel the politics that have barely changed form, moreso in name, that have ruled here for thousands of years. I can smell and taste the food whose recipes have been passed down through so many generations. I can indulge myself in their healing massages where they use their long existing understanding of pressure points and healing abilities of touch. I can hold the relics that represent the history here but now are only fake reproductions. My Lonely Planet has a very valid point that the only thing real you can find in Shanghai are the fake things. This leads me to my dislike.
Where is the creativity??? Lost with the overly restrictive policies? I believe so. If they teach people to think for themselves, not to just follow rules and obey the teachers, take notes and memorize, then they will be rich with knowledge but won't ask questions or UPRISE. If creative thinking is praised then people will start critically analyzing and searching for freedom and possibly soon desire to make choices for themselves AND the one party system does not want freedom of thought, availability of intellecual choices. I think you get my point, with choices come the yearning to choose governing bodies and eventually, the breakdown of a one party system to one that includes more parties...Well, I mention all this becuase here in China, each store sells the same things, all the clothes are rip offs of top foreign brands and designs, same goes for cars, toys, fast food and advertising, etc. As a matter of fact many of the Chinese brands advertising prefers to use western models instead of Chinese models. While they mimic the western world because there is a either a lack of or a disinterest in creativity within the commercial arena, questions arise. Will this affinity for western lifestyle lead them to desire a more democratic or even socialist political system, even while creativity is suppressed so to avoid such a thinking??? I dislike that everything is fake because it promotes the theory of branding which our world has quickly adapted. Although I am a player in this market, I do not really like the idea of buying things based soley on the initials on the tag, instead of for the quality or creativity of it. I would much rather see a new designer create an interesting style, quality made purse that does not have initials printed all over it as do most designer purses in the US.
When I leave my house and go into the Chinese areas my least favorite thing is the staring. Don't get me wrong staring is not a new phenomenon for me, I have been stared at my whole life but China staring is different. They feel no guilt, no need to justify their stares, no warm embrace in their stares or inquisitions, no further interest than to stare. They (stares) are very rarely complemented with a smile and even more rarely with a greeting of any sort. Although I often smile and occasionally offer a "Ni hao", it is few and far between that either are returned. Sometimes, I find myself acting a clown, giving a wide exaggerated smile and a loud and slow "Ni Hao ma?" "How are you", because this can get a good smile and chuckle out of them. Aside from the staring it's all the other things we consider, "common courtesy" that are disregarded in these areas that I do not like. I hate being pushed and watching people pee in the middle of the street or pick their nose and stare at their findings. I especially hate when people violently hawk up a lugie and spit it near you but even worse is when they are the one who serves your food. I don't like loud belching in restaurants and find it gross when the majority of locals leave the restrooms without washing their hands. I get bothered by the fact that when the street sign finally turns green for pedestrians, the bikes and motorbikes just keep going and you have to jump out of the way even if that means pushing someone else out of the way. These are the things that I'm sure people who stay longer get accustomed to but I have not yet.
I try to let those annoyances rest in the background and soak up all the jy and excitement I can though. I am reading a great book my younger sister gave Levy, "China Road" which puts words to so many of my curiousities and revelations about society and modernization here. I am enjoying the observations of how people are adjusting to the drastic changes in a land that has remained focused on preservation of tradition and obedience. While the government is so narrowly focused on economic development, morals and ethics, culture and ideology get trampled on. The author, a British NPR correspondent poses the question, in a society that is so rapidly taking on capitalistic characteristics, where the goverment is offering more and more freeedoms, how will they maintain a one paty system? However, China for since it's existence has more or less had a one party system, can they actually change that???? The future of China will be a fascinating one and I, personally, am curious to see what unfolds. How will they transform their economy to keep meeting the needs of the world if they keep teaching people to follow orders and prevent them from thinking on their own? Their is no promotion of creativity here, it is moreso a fight to make the best repilcation of some other countries systems.
Stay tuned...
xoxo Lolo in China
Monday, April 13, 2009
The Ride to Work
On Saturday morning I was happy to ride my bike to teach at the Korean family's home I go to twice a week. Usually there is dreadful traffic and multiple near crash experiences, along with the overabundance of nauseating puffs of black exhaust from all the buses, motorbikes and construction trucks along the way. Although, previously I mentioned how thrilling these short and long bike rides can be, sometimes they can also be completely exhausting and revolting. Anyhoo, this ride began lovely, I strolled along in no rush with the sun on my back and engulfed by blue skies. People smiled, the birds whistled and everyone had an extra pep in their step. Early on I happened upon an old Chinese man riding his bike that did not fit the stereotypical old Chinese guy on a bike, no trousers and sports jacket. This man was a straight Chinese cholo. He wore dark ray bans, warm up sweats and a big sweatshirt and rode a low rider bicycle. His face was hardened by a tough life and he had a slight devilish smirk resting on his lips. I couldn't get Ice Cube's song out of my head " I got my Locs on". For those of you (probably most of you since I don't think many of my friends my age read this) who don't know this song or even what the phrase means, just picture a stereotypical Mexican gangster, dark sunglasses, shaved head, baggy sweats and sweatshirt, fumanchu, lookin' gangsta (as Levy would say). This old man was riding a low rider rusty-ass bicycle all "loc'd" out. I giggled to myself for awhile, excited to tell Levy about my fellow bicycler and rode on.
It wasn't long before I turned the corner to see a little boy pooping, with grandma's encouragement, yes, squatting down and shitting, in the middle of the sidewalk right outside a fruit market, directly in front of a man selling fresh steamed buns out of big bamboo steamers. I think I was the only one fascinated, nobody else seemed to bat an eye. One block later, unable to avoid staring, I noticed a boy maybe 6 years old peeing off the sidewalk onto the road where bikes and scooters zoom by. THIS is normal here in China. They call it "potty training". Children too young to potty train just have pants with a big open split in the butt. They look so darling in their puffy padded pants to keep them warm and then they turn around and you catch a glimpse of their adorable baby tushy. It's all very cute until they squat wherever they are and begin peeing or on occasion pooping. When you see these pants, there's always a slight fear that something may just come squirting out at any given time. They start potty training early on here. My ride continued smoothly after that until I arrived at the house to teach some kids that chose to be unruly and uncooperative but adorable and affectionate all at the same time. Oi Vei!
Not long ago on this same trek but on a Wednesday night I came close to death when a bus swerved to avoid some bikers on the other side of the road and in doing so had me at a stand still pinned between the construction barriers and the side of the bus. I came out with no injuries to myself or my bike and didn't even have a chance to stop and worry about it. Then I came to an intersection where a girl on her scooter had been hit by a taxi driver. The scene was completely preserved, it was if it had just happened. She chose to stay on the ground under her overturned scooter with the taxi stationary, door swung open in the middle of the road, nobody helped or even offered to help her up. I later found out this is typical and it's best not to offer help or you can be implicated in the accident and have to pay money for the girl's injuries. Here I thought she was insane for not getting the hell out of a position that she could easily get further injured in, but apparently she was doing her best to make sure she'd get some money out of that taxi driver's pocket. Things are different everywhere you go, I tell ya.
Another time on this same ride I was stopped at an intersection when I saw a man riding his scooter with a dog, what looked like some kind of retriever, perched like the kids here often are, in the front of the scooter standing up, holding the handles in front of the driver. HAHA! Oh how I wish I had a picture of that one! A ways down the road I witnessed a guy jump on the back of a motorbike really quickly and rush off, swerving through traffic. I soon heard and saw a girl running down the street screaming after them. Soon there were bikes and scooters on the job, rushing after the culprits, but sadly to no avail, the girl's purse was gone. This was the only real crime I've witnessed here and hopefully it will remain the only one.
Every week I have a new tale from this ride to and from the family's house (even though they live in a nice area, the neighborhoods change every block). The next time I have a really interesting one, I'll be sure to keep you all posted.
xoxo Lolo in China
Friday, April 10, 2009
Misty indeed
Thursday afternoon, 20 of us, all Chinese Americans (one Vietnamese American) and myself, trekked downtown to the train station, savoring the last ice cream cones and KFC fried chicken we'd see for a few days. Our train ride was 16 hours to Huang Shen and we bought our tickets too late for the bottom bunks in the hard sleepers. Still, we remained optimistic, giddy like kids on a field trip. Our quarters were tight, we had the medium quality sleeping coach, no doors on our rooms but still including beds (as small as they were). The strangers on the bottom bunks smiled and offered us seats, as you can't sit up straight on the middle and top bunks. We played cards, mahjong and got to know each other better. Everyone shared snacks and ate pamien (big Chinese version of cup 'o noodles) together. At around 6:30am I awoke briefly and made the mistake of looking out the window. We had officially descended from the cityscapes and into the countryside. Entrancing fields of yellow flowers and old Chinese style buildings spread across the land. My camera came out and thoughts of sleep faded for the time being. My weekend getaway to rural China with hopes of a taste of nature and insight into life outside the city (the life so many Chinese are trying to escape) had begun.
Yellow Mountain, Huang Shen, is what makes up the landscapes we imagine when we think of Chinese paintings: mountain tops floating above the mist topped with a single Banzai tree and some peculiar boulder balancing at an angle. A land only for the most spiritual, those that can honestly believe heaven is here on earth because they live in the magic of pure, wondrous nature. This is a land that takes great effort to climb to and in doing so, effortlessly infuses you with joy and freedom. The air is crisp and clean, the land is moist and green.
I see the trees clenching their fists, trying not to give in too early only to lose their hard work to the rain. The trees are holding their breath for the first rays of sunshine and when that sun breaks through, their will be an explosion of color, the blossoms will harvest a new sensation of nirvana for all to witness. The monkeys will be abound, the birds singing, the frogs jumping, the river decorated and the people, the people will remember why they live so far from civilization, they will thank their gods and they will tell their children myths of times past about the mystical land they've chosen as home.
While I smiled endlessly about and breathed deeply within, meditated soundly upon and thanked humbly for this land, for the marvels of nature, She buried me in fog and teased me with sprinkles of rain. On the second day, she shrouded us in a downpour and challenged us to believe in her beauty despite our cold and soggy bodies. The group of 20 carried on, we hiked around to see anything She'd offer us, and eventually after heading back to the hotel to come agree on the next plan, she spread some light on those mystical mountains, alluring us back into her beauty, exciting our curiosity again. We frolicked in the few moments of light and then head down the mountain by gondola to explore the 9 dragons waterfall.
we stopped for lunch outside of the waterfall entrance and enjoyed their local vegetable dishes full of flavor and our bellies thanked us. The waterfalls greeted us with a fantastic pool of glistening water created by 2 waterfalls, bordered by bamboo and pink blossoms of all sorts. All along the trail up the river/stream was nature's best face, clear water rushing in and out of golden rocks surrounded by the green of trees and vibrant colors of flowers blossoming. The relentless rain was hardly noticeable as we all enveloped outself in the landscape. I trailed along with people at times and then alone. For a short while I was joined by my frien Alan who keeps me laughing and enjoyed the scenery as immensely as I did, until he would trek off for some wild adventure climbing rocks and finding ways to cross the water. I enjoyed every minute of it. I took a trail down through some trees and grass to a small secluded beach along the water and meditated, offereing thanks to the great creater who offered us such sights. I embraced the pure ectasy I felt from witnessing such exquisiteness, feeling fortunate to coexist with the trees and the rushing water which provide me with breathe and life.
eventually I found myself at a peak where the water fell hundreds of feel down a mountain's side, spraying me with mist as if to call, wake up, LOOK around, do you see this magnificence?! It was a spectacular sight and feeling. My heart rushed, my feet pulsed and I felt small in this world.
After a few hours at the waterfall, drenched and awe-struck, we all piled into 2 vans and headed down the hill to our hostel. I shared a room with a friend, Jing, with 2 beds and a bathroom that had a detachable shower on the wall next to the toilet and sink, an all in one bathroom. I had some pretty bad shivers so a hot shower got me going again and we headed back out into the rain to the old street in town to find some dinner. Along the alleys with street food, each restaurant attempts to allure customers with cages out front advertising live animals that they serve; rabbits, turtles, frogs, fish, eels, chickens, etc. As American's we prefer not to think about what the meat we're eating once was so this was more of a turn off than an enticement. I tried "stinky tofu", "hairy tofu" and lamb with the cartilage kebabs that night.
The following day we woke up fresh for our outing to the mountain where Taoism was founded and to see an old preserved Chinese village. There were some clouds flouting in and out of the sky but the sun had broken through. We all relished in the beauty around us, daydreaming, well maybe that was just me since I couldn't understand our tour guide. We hiked up and down hills, paying tribute to various icons set into the mountains and meandered through the small walkways within the village on the mountainside. The weather was ideal and the day was relaxing as we observed the way of life in the country. We ate a traditional lunch inside a small room, similar to what some of my friends recalled of their youth, dining at their grandparents' houses. Because I was the eldest I led the meal. I got first pick on the fish and many of the other dishes. It was a nice moment of power where I felt respected for being older instead of like a misfit. I knelt before the great statue in the main temple and paid my respects and then we headed back down the hill.
Our 2nd to last stop was at an old preserved Chinese village. It was a serene setting amidst the natural beauty with old buildings whose roofs curved up like in the Kung Fu movies, with detailed designs painted along the edges. The alleyways were small and the water ran through the village in a deep set mote. We got to see what some of the interiors of homes from this time period would look like and peruse the town center. Of course now it is a tourist trap so there were people selling things everywhere you looked but still, it was neat.
On our way back that evening on the bus to Shanghai, there were too many people so they made some people sit on tiny stools in the aisle. These poor people had to sit there uncomfortably for 5 hours! I sat next to a friend Ken, the 2nd oldest of the group (28). He admitted to me that among this group he feels the age gap and I lemented that I, too, feel it. On this trip I truly learned how innocent this bunch of students really is. Maybe it's because I'm so much older, maybe it's because I grew up in a hippy town, maybe it's because they are Asian and have stricter upbringings, maybe they just didn't feel comfortable admitting what they had experimented with? But one evening on the journey a conversation arose about expriences with various things, and I was shocked to find out that smoking a huka with tobacco was a really big deal and "counted" when feeling guilty for wrong doings. Boy did I feel like a bad influence, not that I am one but I have seen and done things far outside that box. But I was honest and told them my thoughts on things I think are somewhat mild in the scheme of things, all while making sure not to offend anyone or at least make them feel bad for thinking any certain way. This was a wake up call as to how different our world's are. Nevertheless, I had a blast and am very grateful for this grand adventure.
xoxo Lolo in China
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
It's been awhile
Hello again,
I know it's been too long since I updated you all on my China adventures but take it as a good sign that I am enjoying myself here. In the past month I have gone on two escapes from the big bad city. The first trek was to Xi'An with Levy's program and that is what this story is all about. the other was this past weekend to"Yellow Mountain", Huang Shen, which will come in the next blog.
We all gathered bright and early on a Friday morning and headed off to the airport, all 49 of us. you can only imagine the looks on people's faces when they realized their flight had been infiltrated by a bunch of English speaking, picture snapping, 20 something year olds giddy to be flying with so many friends at once. Then again it was a giant plane (2 stories- the top with beds) I wonder how many people actually noticed us. Believe it or not, the passengers were equally as picture happy, thrilled to have their photo taken with a P-diddy/Kanye West character and his curly haired American wife. This theme continued throughout our journey. What can I say, Levy is a superstar. There aren't that many African's here that you see during the day, and especially outside the big cities. Although at the clubs we've met plenty of Africans and African Americans.
Upon our arrival into the ancient city of Xi'An our tour guide pointed out numerous bumps in the feilds representing various tombs of nobles, something that without explanation could have easily gone unrecognized as being significant. This fact was a nice introduction to the ancient city and it's importance in Chinese history.
The ancient city of Xi'An in the Shaanxi province was the capitol many times throughout China's past. It encapsulates the modern and ancient look and feel of a city. It has the best kept city wall of any city in China, including the Great Wall. This is saying something since it was a capitol through so many different dynasties and still it remains tall and strong.
After our drive through the fields, we arrived at the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. This is what I was waiting to see in China, a beautiful, old buddhist temple with mesmerizing architecture, peaceful gardens and a spiritual presence that urges you into a state of reflection. This 5 story pagoda was built in 652 during the Tang dynasty and when it fell 50 years later it was rebuilt to be 10 stories high. It remained until the 1550's when an earthquake knocked it down to 7 stories high, the height it stands at now. Imagine, walking up the stairs of a building from the 700's...
After a sad attempt at American Chinese food at a tourist trap restuuarant that all the bus tours in China take their patrons to, we made it through the city wall to our 4 star hotel. The hotel greeted us with luxury and old chinese glam.
The following day we started early to see some of the many historic sights of Xi'An. First, we went onto the city wall to test it's strength and many of us rented bicycles to ride around the perimeter. Levy and I strolled along on a tandum bike, admiring the beautiful architecture of the small forts along the wall, the hordes of people practicing Tai Chi in the parks outside and below the wall, the changing dynamics in neighborhoods within the wall's perimeter. It felt surreal to ride along the wall, seeing structures that centuries of generations saw, now with modern skyscrapers and smokestacks barreling over the sides just outside of the ancient city. There were remains of bright and intricate lanterns left from the new year's celebration partially still up, some being taken apart while we rode past.
Next stop, a factory where they make terra cotta warriors and various souvenirs, another tourist trap the tour buses have an agreement with to make money. AND then, the Terra Cotta Army, the real deal. First let me start by mentioning that the (first) Emporer of China, Qin Shi Huang, dedicated 1/3 of the GDP of China on building his mausoleum (that's 1/3 of the country's GDP for 50 years spent on his grave!). These soldiers were built in the 200 BCE's but in the 1970's some farmers discovered the soldiers when they were digging. There have only been 3 pits uncovered, out of hundreds because of many reasons. The Emporer had an entire city built for him with a mote of mercury protecting him in the afterlife, along with thousands of terra cotta soldiers. Archaeoligists are fearful of the mercury as well as booby traps that may either destroy them or the artifacts they hope to uncover. Still within the pits that are uncovered there are over 6,000 soldiers and horses, each carved with an individual face. The detail put into this army for the afterlife goes as deep as the bottom of their shoes, if there are bumps, then they were married soldiers and in the case of death the wife would receive her husbands shoes that she had sewn to be sturdy for his journey, as proof of his death.
It was awe-inspiring, as people shoved past and elbowed me to get the perfect photograph I stood entranced by the power of one man to built a stronger city than many modern ones simply to protect him in the afterlife. Long, long ago there were hundreds of thousands of people who were forced to deidcate their lives to building this city below ground and only fairly recently did we rediscover this wonder.
Xi'An is an interesting city because it's existence as an important city dates back so far. Still now, while building the subway system they are continuously discovering artifacts from tombs underground. I wonder where these spirits ended up? Did their jewels and armies serve them well after death or did they get left behind so that we can now peice together history and create fascinating legends and theories? Oh, but there was one last stop, Muslim street. Xi'An has a famous muslim market street full of nuts and dried fruits, muslim candies and street food snacks, bargaining and sweet smells of cumin and red bean paste.
A few varying facotories, museums and cheesy tourist restaurants later, we ended up back on a bus to the airport to fly back to our lives in Shanghai, our modern city trapped in between it's industrial and technological revolution, slowly escaping it's gangster roots. It was a great exploration, a fun chance to get to know the UC EAP students better and a great opportunity to see deep into Chinese history.
xoxo Lolo in China.
I know it's been too long since I updated you all on my China adventures but take it as a good sign that I am enjoying myself here. In the past month I have gone on two escapes from the big bad city. The first trek was to Xi'An with Levy's program and that is what this story is all about. the other was this past weekend to"Yellow Mountain", Huang Shen, which will come in the next blog.
We all gathered bright and early on a Friday morning and headed off to the airport, all 49 of us. you can only imagine the looks on people's faces when they realized their flight had been infiltrated by a bunch of English speaking, picture snapping, 20 something year olds giddy to be flying with so many friends at once. Then again it was a giant plane (2 stories- the top with beds) I wonder how many people actually noticed us. Believe it or not, the passengers were equally as picture happy, thrilled to have their photo taken with a P-diddy/Kanye West character and his curly haired American wife. This theme continued throughout our journey. What can I say, Levy is a superstar. There aren't that many African's here that you see during the day, and especially outside the big cities. Although at the clubs we've met plenty of Africans and African Americans.
Upon our arrival into the ancient city of Xi'An our tour guide pointed out numerous bumps in the feilds representing various tombs of nobles, something that without explanation could have easily gone unrecognized as being significant. This fact was a nice introduction to the ancient city and it's importance in Chinese history.
The ancient city of Xi'An in the Shaanxi province was the capitol many times throughout China's past. It encapsulates the modern and ancient look and feel of a city. It has the best kept city wall of any city in China, including the Great Wall. This is saying something since it was a capitol through so many different dynasties and still it remains tall and strong.
After our drive through the fields, we arrived at the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. This is what I was waiting to see in China, a beautiful, old buddhist temple with mesmerizing architecture, peaceful gardens and a spiritual presence that urges you into a state of reflection. This 5 story pagoda was built in 652 during the Tang dynasty and when it fell 50 years later it was rebuilt to be 10 stories high. It remained until the 1550's when an earthquake knocked it down to 7 stories high, the height it stands at now. Imagine, walking up the stairs of a building from the 700's...
After a sad attempt at American Chinese food at a tourist trap restuuarant that all the bus tours in China take their patrons to, we made it through the city wall to our 4 star hotel. The hotel greeted us with luxury and old chinese glam.
The following day we started early to see some of the many historic sights of Xi'An. First, we went onto the city wall to test it's strength and many of us rented bicycles to ride around the perimeter. Levy and I strolled along on a tandum bike, admiring the beautiful architecture of the small forts along the wall, the hordes of people practicing Tai Chi in the parks outside and below the wall, the changing dynamics in neighborhoods within the wall's perimeter. It felt surreal to ride along the wall, seeing structures that centuries of generations saw, now with modern skyscrapers and smokestacks barreling over the sides just outside of the ancient city. There were remains of bright and intricate lanterns left from the new year's celebration partially still up, some being taken apart while we rode past.
Next stop, a factory where they make terra cotta warriors and various souvenirs, another tourist trap the tour buses have an agreement with to make money. AND then, the Terra Cotta Army, the real deal. First let me start by mentioning that the (first) Emporer of China, Qin Shi Huang, dedicated 1/3 of the GDP of China on building his mausoleum (that's 1/3 of the country's GDP for 50 years spent on his grave!). These soldiers were built in the 200 BCE's but in the 1970's some farmers discovered the soldiers when they were digging. There have only been 3 pits uncovered, out of hundreds because of many reasons. The Emporer had an entire city built for him with a mote of mercury protecting him in the afterlife, along with thousands of terra cotta soldiers. Archaeoligists are fearful of the mercury as well as booby traps that may either destroy them or the artifacts they hope to uncover. Still within the pits that are uncovered there are over 6,000 soldiers and horses, each carved with an individual face. The detail put into this army for the afterlife goes as deep as the bottom of their shoes, if there are bumps, then they were married soldiers and in the case of death the wife would receive her husbands shoes that she had sewn to be sturdy for his journey, as proof of his death.
It was awe-inspiring, as people shoved past and elbowed me to get the perfect photograph I stood entranced by the power of one man to built a stronger city than many modern ones simply to protect him in the afterlife. Long, long ago there were hundreds of thousands of people who were forced to deidcate their lives to building this city below ground and only fairly recently did we rediscover this wonder.
Xi'An is an interesting city because it's existence as an important city dates back so far. Still now, while building the subway system they are continuously discovering artifacts from tombs underground. I wonder where these spirits ended up? Did their jewels and armies serve them well after death or did they get left behind so that we can now peice together history and create fascinating legends and theories? Oh, but there was one last stop, Muslim street. Xi'An has a famous muslim market street full of nuts and dried fruits, muslim candies and street food snacks, bargaining and sweet smells of cumin and red bean paste.
A few varying facotories, museums and cheesy tourist restaurants later, we ended up back on a bus to the airport to fly back to our lives in Shanghai, our modern city trapped in between it's industrial and technological revolution, slowly escaping it's gangster roots. It was a great exploration, a fun chance to get to know the UC EAP students better and a great opportunity to see deep into Chinese history.
xoxo Lolo in China.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Just sit back and relax
In honor of the yearly Girl's Spa Getaway I do with the ladies in my family every year around March, I decided it was time to get another massage. This time I opted for a foot massage, after trekking all over downtown and a long night in heels, the day before. I should preface this by saying while the massages are fabulous and the prices unbeatable, the ambiance isn't everything you'd imagine in a spa. It's a cute little building with the slippers and a real toilet, magazines, soothing music and smells and a lounge to relax in. However, people are smoking, you can hear them spitting, the towels covering the chairs are old and the walls a little grungy, the place just looks a little beat up. Honestly, I haven't been in a place here that doesn't look, smell or sound like that though. It's a developing, not yet developed, country, there's a lot of humidity and everything here is done cheap and the materials used are made cheaply. Truly these are minor details when you are getting a massage you will cherish much longer than the actual activity takes!
This was no ordinary foot massage, this was, start to finish, over an hour of divinity. In my own little warm room, soft chair, reading my book I sat with my feet in a barrel of hot tea water while the masseuse worked wonders on my shoulders, neck and back. Then she took my feet out, put a nice scrub on my feet gently caressing in and out of each toe, up the groove of my arch and dipped them each in the water for a warm rinse again. She put warming pads with hot sand on my knees, behind my back and neck and moved on to lotion my feet and legs and work on pressure points in my feet and soothing rubs. I couldn't wipe the smile from my face even during the painful moments. This was the defining moment that I truly understood what my friend Rachel used to always call, "a good hurt". She really worked the knots out of my feet and softened those suckers up. If any of you know my feet, they are not your average girly, soft, gentle feet, they are my native american feet, they are hard and callassed for walking on any surface. Then she moved onto my calves and all the way up each leg, massaging, stretching and popping them from top to bottom.
70 full minutes of strong massage, that is what I call a foot massage and (with a student discount) all for only 55RMB = $8.5. Beleive it!
Who is coming to visit for a spa retreat??? I've got plenty of room at my apartment for guests!
xoxo Lolo in China
Thursday, March 5, 2009
The Rat Race
Children bounce on the backs of autobikes, sometimes the front, and friends balance sideways on the backs of bicycles, most holding onto nothing and entrusting in blind faith that their driver will make all the right decisions. We do this everyday when we get in a car, we believe in everyone elses, including our own, competence and skill at driving cautiously and confidently in order to get where we need to go, accident free. Yet, here it is a different story, there are more than just cars. There are big trucks stacked beyond measure with junk, cardboard, bamboo, bags, water jugs, metal barrels, and buses, bikes, autobikes, scooters, wagons stacked high with piping, recyclables, you name it, all driving, only sometimes obeying the rules of the road. There are no seat belts or helmets, no guarantee that the vehicles of all sorts are well maintained, no mirrors or headlights on the hundreds of bicycles in the roadways and frightening methods of securing the materials carried by these transports. Scooters and bikes may be coming the wrong direction down the road squeezing the space you have to ride in even moreso. Admittantly, it scares me sometimes to brave these roads but there is also a thrill to it. When I jump on my bike to go somewhere I know I am taking a risk and there have been moments when I wondered if I would become a statistic but often it's more of an exciting voyage. The thrill seeker in me loves this part of my life here. I've realized that things seem to go alright as long as you move with the crowd and ease into braking, if you have to brake at all. It's really a wonder how it all works, the traffic here, but it flows as long as you move with confidence and are a bit aggressive, but DON'T put on your brakes out of fear or it messes the whole system up, people will move around you if they see you coming, put on your brakes and they don't know WHAT to do.
Really it's no better to be a pedestrian on the sidewalk. There are people fighting for a space on the sidewalk amongst more bikes and scooters, wagons and workmen carrying large obtrusive objects. This is why it is important to have a bell on your bike, in case you need to ride on the sidewalk, but more importantly, as a means of saying "get out of my way" to those people avoiding the chaos on the sidewalk by walking in the street instead. A bell is also a very important bicycle accessory in order to tell other bikes and scooters you're coming and for them not to make any sudden changes in their course of direction. It's a wild world, China, but mysteriously things get done and people get where they need to go.
At times I miss the comfort of getting into my own car, going directly where I want to go, with the heater on and listening to the music I want to hear. But mostly I enjoy the fact that I don't have to deal with a car, maybe it's because I'm used to crappy cars that aren't that comfortable to drive, that worry me they will break down, overheat or have some kind of problem or another. I enjoy traveling with the masses, people watching, doing my part for the environment (kind of, the buses here are pretty big polluters). I feel proud that I can navigate the subway system and find the bus I need from a Chinese sign. I like riding my bike and being in the open air so that I can take in everything I am seeing. Not to mention, it's a hell of a lot cheaper than having my own car! So I've joined the rat race of public transport in Shanghai. No matter where you are, there are people fighting to get somewhere, so it's useless to have road rage. I just float along doing my best to avoid any accidents and to enjoy my journey.
xoxo Lolo in China
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