Misty indeed

Thursday afternoon, 20 of us, all Chinese Americans (one Vietnamese American) and myself, trekked downtown to the train station, savoring the last ice cream cones and KFC fried chicken we'd see for a few days. Our train ride was 16 hours to Huang Shen and we bought our tickets too late for the bottom bunks in the hard sleepers. Still, we remained optimistic, giddy like kids on a field trip. Our quarters were tight, we had the medium quality sleeping coach, no doors on our rooms but still including beds (as small as they were). The strangers on the bottom bunks smiled and offered us seats, as you can't sit up straight on the middle and top bunks. We played cards, mahjong and got to know each other better. Everyone shared snacks and ate pamien (big Chinese version of cup 'o noodles) together. At around 6:30am I awoke briefly and made the mistake of looking out the window. We had officially descended from the cityscapes and into the countryside. Entrancing fields of yellow flowers and old Chinese style buildings spread across the land. My camera came out and thoughts of sleep faded for the time being. My weekend getaway to rural China with hopes of a taste of nature and insight into life outside the city (the life so many Chinese are trying to escape) had begun.
Yellow Mountain, Huang Shen, is what makes up the landscapes we imagine when we think of Chinese paintings: mountain tops floating above the mist topped with a single Banzai tree and some peculiar boulder balancing at an angle. A land only for the most spiritual, those that can honestly believe heaven is here on earth because they live in the magic of pure, wondrous nature. This is a land that takes great effort to climb to and in doing so, effortlessly infuses you with joy and freedom. The air is crisp and clean, the land is moist and green.
I see the trees clenching their fists, trying not to give in too early only to lose their hard work to the rain. The trees are holding their breath for the first rays of sunshine and when that sun breaks through, their will be an explosion of color, the blossoms will harvest a new sensation of nirvana for all to witness. The monkeys will be abound, the birds singing, the frogs jumping, the river decorated and the people, the people will remember why they live so far from civilization, they will thank their gods and they will tell their children myths of times past about the mystical land they've chosen as home.
While I smiled endlessly about and breathed deeply within, meditated soundly upon and thanked humbly for this land, for the marvels of nature, She buried me in fog and teased me with sprinkles of rain. On the second day, she shrouded us in a downpour and challenged us to believe in her beauty despite our cold and soggy bodies. The group of 20 carried on, we hiked around to see anything She'd offer us, and eventually after heading back to the hotel to come agree on the next plan, she spread some light on those mystical mountains, alluring us back into her beauty, exciting our curiosity again. We frolicked in the few moments of light and then head down the mountain by gondola to explore the 9 dragons waterfall.
we stopped for lunch outside of the waterfall entrance and enjoyed their local vegetable dishes full of flavor and our bellies thanked us. The waterfalls greeted us with a fantastic pool of glistening water created by 2 waterfalls, bordered by bamboo and pink blossoms of all sorts. All along the trail up the river/stream was nature's best face, clear water rushing in and out of golden rocks surrounded by the green of trees and vibrant colors of flowers blossoming. The relentless rain was hardly noticeable as we all enveloped outself in the landscape. I trailed along with people at times and then alone. For a short while I was joined by my frien Alan who keeps me laughing and enjoyed the scenery as immensely as I did, until he would trek off for some wild adventure climbing rocks and finding ways to cross the water. I enjoyed every minute of it. I took a trail down through some trees and grass to a small secluded beach along the water and meditated, offereing thanks to the great creater who offered us such sights. I embraced the pure ectasy I felt from witnessing such exquisiteness, feeling fortunate to coexist with the trees and the rushing water which provide me with breathe and life.
eventually I found myself at a peak where the water fell hundreds of feel down a mountain's side, spraying me with mist as if to call, wake up, LOOK around, do you see this magnificence?! It was a spectacular sight and feeling. My heart rushed, my feet pulsed and I felt small in this world.
After a few hours at the waterfall, drenched and awe-struck, we all piled into 2 vans and headed down the hill to our hostel. I shared a room with a friend, Jing, with 2 beds and a bathroom that had a detachable shower on the wall next to the toilet and sink, an all in one bathroom. I had some pretty bad shivers so a hot shower got me going again and we headed back out into the rain to the old street in town to find some dinner. Along the alleys with street food, each restaurant attempts to allure customers with cages out front advertising live animals that they serve; rabbits, turtles, frogs, fish, eels, chickens, etc. As American's we prefer not to think about what the meat we're eating once was so this was more of a turn off than an enticement. I tried "stinky tofu", "hairy tofu" and lamb with the cartilage kebabs that night.
The following day we woke up fresh for our outing to the mountain where Taoism was founded and to see an old preserved Chinese village. There were some clouds flouting in and out of the sky but the sun had broken through. We all relished in the beauty around us, daydreaming, well maybe that was just me since I couldn't understand our tour guide. We hiked up and down hills, paying tribute to various icons set into the mountains and meandered through the small walkways within the village on the mountainside. The weather was ideal and the day was relaxing as we observed the way of life in the country. We ate a traditional lunch inside a small room, similar to what some of my friends recalled of their youth, dining at their grandparents' houses. Because I was the eldest I led the meal. I got first pick on the fish and many of the other dishes. It was a nice moment of power where I felt respected for being older instead of like a misfit. I knelt before the great statue in the main temple and paid my respects and then we headed back down the hill.
Our 2nd to last stop was at an old preserved Chinese village. It was a serene setting amidst the natural beauty with old buildings whose roofs curved up like in the Kung Fu movies, with detailed designs painted along the edges. The alleyways were small and the water ran through the village in a deep set mote. We got to see what some of the interiors of homes from this time period would look like and peruse the town center. Of course now it is a tourist trap so there were people selling things everywhere you looked but still, it was neat.
On our way back that evening on the bus to Shanghai, there were too many people so they made some people sit on tiny stools in the aisle. These poor people had to sit there uncomfortably for 5 hours! I sat next to a friend Ken, the 2nd oldest of the group (28). He admitted to me that among this group he feels the age gap and I lemented that I, too, feel it. On this trip I truly learned how innocent this bunch of students really is. Maybe it's because I'm so much older, maybe it's because I grew up in a hippy town, maybe it's because they are Asian and have stricter upbringings, maybe they just didn't feel comfortable admitting what they had experimented with? But one evening on the journey a conversation arose about expriences with various things, and I was shocked to find out that smoking a huka with tobacco was a really big deal and "counted" when feeling guilty for wrong doings. Boy did I feel like a bad influence, not that I am one but I have seen and done things far outside that box. But I was honest and told them my thoughts on things I think are somewhat mild in the scheme of things, all while making sure not to offend anyone or at least make them feel bad for thinking any certain way. This was a wake up call as to how different our world's are. Nevertheless, I had a blast and am very grateful for this grand adventure.
xoxo Lolo in China